It’s been 15 years almost to the day since I was last in Paris, undoubtably my favorite city in the world. I can’t say if it is the beauty of the Haussmann designed neighborhoods, the variety of world-class and intimate museums, the incredible shopping, in particular the antiques, or simply the butter and the croissants. It just doesn’t matter. Even when gray and rainy, life is beautiful in Paris. While my husband had long been in agreement with me, my girls had only fantasized about Paris and I was looking forward to sharing it with them. I wanted to be sure to do Paris right, because it can be done wrong – endless lines, endless tramping through museums coupled with bad cafe food. The key to doing Paris well with kids (and by default other cities too) is to break things down into small pieces, small tastes and acknowledge that only what is directly interesting in that moment needs to be experienced. Find the sublime, because it is out there.
Obviously museums are the baguette and butter of a trip to Paris. Some of the greatest hits should not be missed including Monet’s masterpiece Les Nymphéas at Musee de l’Orangerie, Winged Victory at the Louvre, and for my girls, Degas’ Blue Dancers at the Musée d’Orsay. But we arrived at l’Orangerie at opening to view the space empty and only went to the Louvre during the relatively uncrowded evening hours – it is open until 9:45 Wednesday and Friday – which made all the difference. Beyond the biggies are some magical places – the Musée Rodin Museum, Le Petit Palais, The Musée Jacquemart-André to name a few – but those are the ones that appeal to me. There are endless choices, but but be sure to pick only a few.
Ironically enough, at the moment I was uploading what I though was a very funny selfie of us crammed in at the Mona Lisa (with the actually much more interesting The Wedding Feast at Cana directly behind us), The New York Times was publishing its own version of the photo as a companion to their article “The Art of Slowing Down in a Museum” which makes a strong case for doing just what we did.
My small but very exciting moment was seeing Jaques-Louis David’s unfinished portrait of Madame Récamier (although I was probably supposed to be looking at the gargantuan The Coronation of Napoleon in Notre Dame across the room). You all know I am a sucker for a daybed of any type, but I’ve never been lucky enough to have one named for me. And in one of those moments of synchronicity that could only happen at the Louvre (or perhaps the Met), we stumbled across her actual chaise made by Jacob Frères.
As the ballet obsession continues unabated in our house, a trip to the Palais Garnier was called for. Alas, there were no performances to be had during our visit, but the tour of the opulent and over the top Beaux-Arts theater did not disappoint. To make the space more digestible we focussed on the ornate ceilings.
Autumn had not quite yet come to Paris, but after a couple of months in the desert we were bewitched by the green and eager to be outside. We did a bike tour, a boat ride and played HintHunt, which has nothing at all to do with Paris, but trust me, if you are traveling with bigger kids its is one of the most enjoyable hours they will have.
We had numerous memorable meals and one particularly magical night at Chez Julien just over the Ile St. Louis bridge on the right bank. My husband and I had eaten there 20 years ago and never forgot the prettiest Belle Époque interior. There happened to be a small wedding party – just 4 people – there that night and the candlelight and mirrors combined with her dress and headpiece made us feel as if we were in a Degas painting.
Where’s the shopping, you may be asking yourself? I did, of course, mention antiques. But that needs a Paris puces post of it own, later this week.
On another note, I forgot to announce the winner of Frederick Harris’s book Ukiyo-e: The Art of the Japanese Print, although I did notify the winners in Singapore and Israel. One of the most enjoyable things about the giveaway was seeing the truly global span of my readership.
Lovely post — captured Paris perfectly, if it can be captured. Dan & I were there this past spring, my first time in 30+ years. I think it’s always better after the first time because you don’t feel the need to take in all the important museums and sights. Instead, relax and enjoy, explore the lesser-known places. My favorite was the Puces, of course, and the fabric shops around Montmartre.
I think the best thing about places like Paris is the confidence that one will be back for just that reason – that it is OK not to see everything single thing. Because that would be impossible.
Wonderfully written and accompanied with the perfect photos. Having never been to Paris I feel you must create my experience for it would be not be breathless without your assistance. XO
Anytime – there is so much there you would love!
We seem to be following one another around the world…I was in Paris the weekend before last for the last evening of the ballet season at l’opera. The defilé was effectively story of ballet, so I got to learn the building blocks…facinating for the girl who was told to go play a ball sport and to leave ballet to the graceful. Nothing like that theatre, though.
Did you get to the 1950s clothing exhibit at the musé de la mode? They has an original New Look dress, as well as some examples of amazing tailoring and cloth…the colours and fabrics available (and unavailable) at the time even to the haut couturiers taught me much about the items from the same period I saw in the puces…
We were a bit crushed by the lack of performances – gives us an excuse to go back. And we didn’t make the clothing exhibit although we drooled over all the posters about it in the Metro.
Posts like these are what’s so great about blogs. An intimate window into a magical place – a post worthy of saving for next time 🙂 thanks for sharing.
Such an incredible compliment from a world class writer and traveler – thank you!!
Delicious reading.. Wonder what Fuji would make of it. And now so close … Very tempting….. How did the table travel?
Check it out later this week 🙂 Or as soon as I get some glass cut.
I’m unable to travel due to family illness, but so appreciate your sharing your travel experiences. I love hearing about all of your adventures. Sounds like Paris was delightful!
So happy to take you along for the ride – hope things improve soon! Thanks for stopping by!
Fabulous post as always Jacqueline. Such a joy to read. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Px
I spent the summer in Paris and Normandy the year I graduated high school….stayed with the family of an exchange student that lived with us the previous year. Even at that young age, I was blown away by everything. If I didn’t hate to fly, I would have been back a few times since then.
I adore your photo of the Mona Lisa! That’s exactly how I remember it.
No blog email from you in many months. I miss them. I hope you are OK. If I have fallen off your mailing list, please add me back on!
I really miss your blog postings. Hope you are OK. I have not received an email since February.
Barbara